A performance review of this kit is on Off-Road.com and locally here.

These instructions show the installation of the kit using standard hand tools and air tools. Air tools are not necessary and the kit can be installed without them. I suggest that 2 people do the install, so bring a friend. It is not necessary, but makes the install easier. Clicking on the pictures below will show a large image with more detail added in some photos.

Block all wheels and put transmission in Park or in gear. Apply parking brake, and put the transfer case in 4wd. We will start with the front end first. Lift the front end far enough off the ground that both front tires are clear of the ground. Support frame on both sides using jack stands. Make sure that while the frame is resting on the jack stands the tires are still not touching the ground. Remove both front wheels.

Step 2

Place jack under front differential and raise it high enough to take the stress off the shocks. Disconnect the front swaybar by removing the two lower Torx bolts using a T-55 Torx socket. The location is shown in the red square along with the lower mount of the sway bar. This picture shows the swaybar disconnected and swung down out of the way.

Step 3

Next we will remove the shocks. Remove both lower bolts shown circled in red. Raise the hood to access the top nut on the shock. You may need to use an open end wrench on the nut with vice grips or an adjustable wrench on the stud to keep it from spinning. You will reuse the lower shock mounting bolts, but the new shocks will have a new upper nut.

Step 4

On the driver side there should be a spring retaining clip. Shown in this picture with a square around the bolt head. Remove the bolt and clip. You will replace this upon reassembly. Typically the passanger side will not have this clip.

Step 5

Slowly lower jack that is holding up the front axle. Be very careful to check the extension of the front brake line while doing this. You do not want to rip the front rubber brake lines. If you look in the picture there is a frame mounted brakeline bracket. If your brakeline gets too tight during any of the following steps, you can remove the bolt that holds this bracket to the frame for some more slack in the line. Remove the stock springs. You may need to push down on the axle end to help get it out. Remember that a coil is very much like a screw and you can use that to your advantage while removing and inserting the coil springs. Do this for both sides. You will want to remove the bump stop shown circled in green after the coil is out.

Step 6

Next replace the front coils with the new coils supplied. The front coils are the two longer ones in the kit. Install with the smallest diameter coil opening towards the top. This can be difficult to do. A spring compressor will help, but it can be done without one. Shown here is someone standing on the front assembly to help get it down far enough to get the coil in. I do not reccommend this, but it is just showning that it can be done without a spring compressor. This is the most difficult process of installing the front springs. Once both front spring are installed don't forget to replace the spring retaining clip. Also slide the previously removed bump stops through the coils sideways and replace them in their cups.

Step 7

We will install the new front shocks next. Bolt the lower bar pin to the axle. Cut the retaining strip off the shock (It will rise after you do this) and install one of the large cup washers and rubber bushing. Looking at the old shock will give you a good idea of the orientation of these pieces. The raised part of the bushing should be facing up and fit in the hole on the frame bracket. Compress the shock and let it raise through the hole in the frame. Then place the other bushing on top the opposite way, followed by the other cupped washer and nut. Tighten so that the rubber bushings compress slightly.

Once both front shocks are installed, jack the axle up far enough to fit the front wheels back on. Remove the jack stands from under the frame and lower the front end down to the ground. You are finished with the front. Make sure you chock the front wheels.

The rear process is similar to the front. Start by jacking up the rear so the tires clear the ground and setting it down on jackstands. Use the jack under the differential to raise the axle and remove the rear shocks. The upper bolts are easily accessed using a long 1/4" drive extension.

Step 9

Now remove the rear swaybar links. Shown here removing the upper bolt from the frame.

Step 10

Remove the rear trac-bar from the frame and axle. The picture shows the frame end of the trac-bar. You will need your T-55 bit here again. You should now easily be able to remove the rear springs.

Step 11

Next comes the installation of the rear trac-bar bracket. The first photo shows the orientation of the bracket on the axle. Use the supplied bolts to attach the bracket to the axle. The stock trac-bar bolt will then be used to hold the trac-bar to the new bracket. You will need to drill the lower and upper hole out a bit to fit the bolt. First install bracket using large bolt washers and nut, this is shown with a green circle. Tighten it. Drill the hole for the lower and upper bolts, shown with red circles. You will also notice a snipped washer (shown in picture) was supplied in the kit. This is used on the lower bolt and goes on the axle bracket side. Once there, you will see why the washer is snipped. It only fits one way. The green line shows where the stock bolt will go holding the trac-bar in place. It is not necessary, but would not hurt to tack weld this piece in place after all bolts are tight.

Install the new rear spring. This will be much easier than it was in the front. Raise the axle using the jack and install the rear trac-bar at both the frame end and in the new bracket. Install the new rear shocks. Finally install the new rear swaybar links. Carefully check the installation of the link on to the swaybar itself. Some late model TJs have a metal sleeve pressed into the stock link. If yours is like this, you will need to press the supplied sleeve into one end of your link. If there is no sleeve on the lower part of your stock link, then do not use the sleeve provided in the kit.

Shown here is the comparison between the stock link and the new extended link. Notice the sleeve in the stock link.

Bolt the tires back on the rear, remove jackstands and lower the Jeep.