I got the lift and inspected the parts. Instructions say that it is a 3" front and 2.5" rear lift. Since the Cherokee seemed to be sitting level as it came. I was concerned that it would sit tail low...and it did.

I started on the rear first

This is a very simple add-a-leaf setup. It took me about 1 hour. I removed the rear anti-sway bar, during this process. 1 hitch not mentioned in the directions was that I needed to remove 1 spring clamp from the spring pack to remove the smallest leaf.. which BTW is longer towards the front of the vehicle than the back. Otherwise it went per directions.

Then the Front

Set the Jeep on jackstands high enough to lift front tires about 3-4" off the ground. Followed the instructions as per disassembly with no problems it was fairly easy. The only thing I didn't do was disconnect the tie rod at the pitman arm. However I did need to pull the small tork bolt holding the brake line to the fender for a little more drop to fit the new spring in. Now the fun part. The directions don't tell you when to put the new shocks on. Just remember they go on after the control arms. After you get the new springs in, put the new control arms on it will be much easier. I still used a small bottle jack wedged between the front axle shock mount and the rear lower control arm mount. Once I got the Passenger side on, the driver side went right in with only a little pulling on the axle. Next jack up axle and connect shocks. I did the trackbar relocation bracket last. It went on pretty easy. Drilling the hole on the axle took a bit of time though, more on this later.

Observations.....

Steering wheel was way off center. I loosened the 15mm bolts on the adjusting collar, and adjusted it back to center. The Jeep had a bit of bump steer after the installation, that was caused by the track bar drop bracket. By following directions provided by a TeraFlex 3" TJ kit, I removed the Pro-comp bracket and re-drilled the tracbar hole about 5/8 of an inch to the right (looking from the front). This should help solve the bump steer.

The rear is definitly lower than the front and I had a driveline vibration in the rear. I started by dropping the t-case crossmember 1". This seemed to help the vibrations, but not completely. Here is a picture of what I made. I used 1" square tubing, along with longer bolts.
A little note about this: holding my t-case crossmemeber up is 1 bolt and 1 stud. However the stud does unscrew from the frame rail so that you can use just a bolt.

To lift the rear enough to make it level I added 1.5" blocks with 2 degrees of shim built in. The extra 2 degrees in the shim was in preparation of the slip-yoke eliminator kit I was installing. This finally leveled out the lift. I needed another 1.5" of lift to level out the kit.

I played with vibrations for a long time, before actually ridding myself of them. It seems that the pinion on the Chrysler 8.25" rear end is quite low compared to the Dana 35c. Having the 8.25", I think this caused a lot of the headaches associated with the vibrations. I'm now running a CV type shaft with the pinion pointing about 2 degrees below parrallel with the shaft. This position has yielded the best results with the viberations. Coincidentally this only required the 2 degrees of shim from the blocks to achieve these angles.

Rancho RS-9000 Shocks

There was a thumping coming from the rear of the Cherokee when I hit medium to hard bumps, or a rear tire droped quickly. I found out that the RS-9000 shocks that Pro-Comp listed for the front & rear (the numbers are RS-9129 rear and RS-9128 front) were the exact same length as the stock shocks. Click to see a picture of the original shock and the new RS-9000 side by side. Then another picture showing the original shock (remember its the same length as stock) and how far away the lower mount is. At the 2.5" of ProComp add-a-leaf lift the stock shock (and RS-9000) were about .25 of an inch away from being at full extension. This is what was causing the "klunk" in the rear. I sent back all 4 of my 9000's for longer ones. The correct numbers should be front 9017 and rear 9116. Now these don't have the bar pins in the bottom of the front, and the top of the rear, but I had no problems pulling out the old ones, and hammering them into the new shocks. These shocks are about 4" longer than stock.

Also setting the rear shocks on 1 and the fronts on 2 seemed to give me close to stock ride qualities.

The next issuse I found out about when I was installing the rear shocks was that the rear brake line becomes taught. I put on an extended brake line. Here are a few pictures: Picture 1, Picture 2 of the original rear line. I had removed it from the stock location to afford some slack until installing the new line. Moving the stock bracket, or adding another bracket is also a fine solution to this problem.