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The bumper was packed up real good and tight in a very large box. They used styrefoam and paper to support the bumper in the box. This bumper has Tomken's new powdercoating on it and boy is it nice! It seems really durable and scratch resistant. You can also get the coating with "texture" in it to match the texture in the stock plastic moldings.
I read through the instructions and checked out all of the parts to make sure everything was there. Everthing was packed and marked well, and I had no problems figuring out the directions.
Installation:
The first step was to remove the stock bumper. To remove the side plastic moldings,
first remove the two bolts pointed to by the white arrows in the first picture.
Then crawl under the Jeep and on the inside of the plastic moulding there are
two bolts with nuts that hold it to the side of the jeep. These might take a
while to locate, but closely inspect photo #2, and that should get you real
close. Photo #2 is a shot of the inside passenger side fender.
The
part of the tire that you can see is the front of the tire. You should be able
to locate the horn assembly, and the vaccuum canister that is bolted to the
inside of the bumper on the passenger side. Repeat this step for both sides
Once you have all 4 bolts removed you can carefully pull the plastic moulding
off the front bumper. There is a small keyed piece of plastic that holds the
moudling to the top of the bumper, be careful not to break it off when removing
it. Once you get the passenger side off, repeat for the driver side.
You
will not be able to completly remove the plastic moudlings from the vehicle
since the lower portion of it is rivited to the air dam. I just left it rivited,
and continued with removing the bumper. Your bumper should now look like this.
Next remove the 4 bolts that hold the bumper to the bumper brackets. The white
arrows are pointing to their locations. These are a number 55 torxs head bolts.
Before you remove the bumper from the brackets, make sure you disconnect the
vaccuum canister line! It is located on the vaccuum canister that is bolted
on the inside of the bumper on the passenger side. The photo shows the canister
bolted to the bumper once the bumper was removed from the vehicle. You'll now
want to remove the canister from the bumper since we'll need to mount it on
the vehicle.
You're jeep should now look like this, pretty neat huh! I outlined with a white
line where to mount the vaccum canister. There is a bracket that suports the
fender that is the perfect location to remount the canister. I used the factory
screws and captive nuts to mount it, but zip ties would be acceptable.
Next we needed to remove the factory bumper brackets. There are 3 bolts per
side holding each bracket on. The first picture shows the driver side bracket
in place with arrows pointing to the 3 bolts. The second picture shows the passenger
side bracket removed with white circles showing where the bolts were.
You'll now want to remove the captive nuts that were used with the frontmost
bracket bolts. You will be replacing these captive nuts and bolts with new ones.
However you'll need to re-use 2 of the bumper bracket bolts that you removed.
They are the rearmost ones.
You can now see the Tomken bracket where the old bracket used to be. You should
be able to tell that the front 2 bolts are new, and the rear bolt is the original
bolt. Be careful as to which bracket goes where. Follow the diagram that is
included with the instructions.
The next step is to mount the bumper to the Jeep. It would be nice to have a
helper for this part. This is a pretty stout bumper and too heavy to support
by yourself while trying to start a bolt. I used a small saw horse on one end
to support the bumper, then started the 2 bolts on the other side. Everything
lined up perfectly! Now don't tighten these bolts down just yet, leave them
all loose. The new brackets have elongated holes for the bumper so that you
can align it where you see fit. I lifted mine as high as possible without touching
the grille assembly. Once you get the bumper where you like it, you can tighten
the bolts down.
Now you will notice that the factory plastic splash guards may need to be trimmed in a few spots to fit well with the new bumper. I just used a pair of tin snips to clean up the edges, and then fastened the plastic down in a few places. Also my front rubber splash guard was just "hanging" around and flapping in the wind. With the original bumper it didn't matter since it hung lower and hid this rubber piece. However with the new bumper you will be able to see it, so I used some black silicon to fasten the rubber to the crossmember. You can also use some small sheetmetal screws with large washers to accomplish this. Throughout the pictures, I highlighted in red this rubber piece.
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Call Tomken Machine
for latest pricing and information.
Tomken Machine can be reached at:
Tomken Machine 35680 U.S. Hwy. 24 N. Buena Vista, Co 81211 Phone: (719)- 395-2526 Fax: (719)-395-4037